2009年10月31日 星期六

詩人拜倫筆下的西庸古堡(the Castle of Chillon)之二

文/ Grace 攝影/Turtle、Grace

依山傍湖的
西庸城堡外觀看來十分浪漫,卻曾有200多名囚犯在其地下牢房度過餘生,其中最有名的是16世紀支持日內瓦獨立而被囚禁的François de Bonivard (1493~1570),他被鐵鍊綁在柱子長達4年之久(1532~1536)1816年英國詩人拜倫(Lord Byron) 來此參觀,在第3根柱子留下簽名,成為此古堡最重要的古蹟。他有感於此史實,寫下「西庸的囚犯」(The Prisoner of Chillon)敘事詩,使得西庸城堡聲名大噪,名人雅士絡繹不絕、前來朝聖。

日內瓦湖邊來往的行人


大砲維護得很好


盔甲和武器隱含著肅殺之氣


遙想當年刀光劍影,多少英雄人物今安在?


大概是施行絞刑的裝置


讓我們想像:1816年某個夏日,英國詩人拜倫(Lord Byron)和他的朋友雪萊(Shelley)同遊西庸古堡。拜倫深受Bonivard的故事感動,尤其在Bonivard被鐵鍊鍊著的柱子前,看到被限制活動範圍Bonivard留在石板地面的足跡,觸發他寫下392行的英詩"The Prisoner of Chillon"的靈感。兩個年輕人因天候不佳,被困在旅館內無法外出,拜倫遂完成此長篇敘事詩。

拜倫在「西庸的囚犯」(The Prisoner of Chillon)這首長詩前面註明"a fable",誠實的說明了此詩內容大部分來自詩人的想像力。細讀此詩,讓人不得不佩服詩人澎湃的感情、豐富的想像力、無以倫比的同理心、刻劃生動的詞藻字彙、以及流暢的表達能力。他寫此詩時年28歲,正是詩人文思泉湧、人生經驗累積到某種程度的時候吧?太精采!You Tube上有前91行的朗讀,可以聽聽看。http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epMJ6a0luXM

The Prisoner of Chillon (西庸的囚犯)
這首詩敘述一個孤獨的倖存者所承受的磨難。主角的父親被燒死在火刑柱上;6個兄弟中,兩個戰死在沙場上,一個死於火刑;剩下的三個被囚禁在西庸古堡地牢中,兩個弟弟逐漸消瘦、憔悴死於主角眼前。最後留下傷心欲絕的主角Bonivard獨白:

My hair is grey, but not with years,
Nor grew it white
In a single night,
As Men’s have grown from sudden fears;
My limbs are bowed, though not with toil, 5
But rusted with a vile repose,
For they have been a dungeon’s spoil,
And mine has been the fate of those
To whom the goodly earth and air
Are banned and barred – forbidden fare; 10
But this was for my Fathers’ faith
I suffered chains and courted death;
That Father perished at the stake
For tenets he would not forsake;
And for the same, his lineal race 15
In darkness found a dwelling-place;
We were seven – who now are One,
Six in youth and one in age,
Finished as they had begun,
Proud of Persecution’s rage; 20
One in fire, and two in field,
Their belief with blood have sealed
Dying as their Father died,
For the God their foes denied;
Three were in a dungeon cast, 25
Of whom this wreck is left the last. –

2.
There are seven pillars of Gothic mold
In Chillon’s dungeons deep and old;
There are seven columns massy and grey,
Dim with a dull imprisoned ray, 30
A Sunbeam which hath lost its way;
And through the Crevice and the cleft
Of the thick wall is fallen and left,
Creeping o’er the floor so damp,
Like a Marsh’s meteor lamp; 35
And in each pillar there is a ring,
And in each ring there is a chain;
That Iron is a cankering thing,
For in these limbs its teeth remain
With marks that will not wear away 40
Till I have done with this new day
Which now is painful to these eyes
Which have not seen the Sun so rise
For years – I cannot count them o’er;
I lost their long and heavy score 45
When my last Brother drooped and died,
And I lay living by his side.
3.
They chained us each to a column stone,
And we were three – yet each alone;
We could not move a single pace; 50
We could not see each other’s face,
But with that pale and livid light
That made us strangers in our sight;
And thus together, yet apart,
Fettered in hand, but pined in heart, 55
’Twas still some solace, in the dearth
Of the pure elements of earth,
To hearken to each other’s speech,
And each turn comforter to each,
With some new hope – or legend old, 60
Or song heroically bold;
But even these at length grew cold.
Our voices took a dreary tone,
An echo of the dungeon-stone,
A grating sound – not full and free, 65
As they of yore were wont to be,
It might be fancy – but to me
They never sounded like our own.
4.
I was the eldest of the three,
And to uphold and cheer the rest 70
I ought to do, and did my best,
And each did well in his degree.
The youngest – whom my Father loved,
Because our mother’s brow was given
To him, with eyes as blue as heaven – 75
For him my soul was sorely moved,
And truly might it be distresst
To see such bird in such a nest,
For he was beautiful as Day
(When Day was beautiful to me 80
As to young Eagles being free)
A polar Day which will not see
A Sunset till its Summer’s gone,
Its sleepless Summer of long light
The Snow-clad offspring of the Sun; 85
And thus he was as pure and bright,
And in his natural Spirit gay,
With tears for nought but others’ ills,
And then they flowed like mountain rills,
Unless he could assuage the woe 90
Which he abhorred to view below.
......
And then the sighs he would suppress,
Of fainting Nature’s feebleness,
More slowly drawn – grew less and less;
I listened – but I could not hear – 205
I called – for I was wild with fear,
I knew ’twas hopeless, but my dread
Would not be thus admonished.
I called, and thought I heard a sound;
I burst my chain with one strong bound 210
And rushed to him – I found him not;
.........

陰暗的地下牢房


英國詩人拜倫的刻字簽名


想像Bonivard修道士被鍊於此柱


Bonivard修道士孤獨、悲憤的被囚禁於此


也許這就是Bonivard修道士夢寐以求、卻不可得的光線吧?




多年前的圖片,西庸古堡看來有無限的哀戚與悲涼。


史實:Bonivard修道士是瑞士的愛國主義者、歷史學家。他接替叔叔成為修道院院長,為反抗Savoy 王朝的統治,1519~1521年被捕下獄,失去他的修道院。此後他更加反對Savoy 王朝
,1530年再度被捕,1532~1536年被拘禁於西庸古堡的地下牢房,1536年被Bernese釋放,成為新教徒,領取日內瓦發給的退休金。他結過四次婚,經常處於負債中。1542年開始編寫日內瓦歷史,1551年完稿,但是直到1831年才出版。


2009年10月27日 星期二

可觀、可遊的西庸古堡(the Castle of Chillon)之一

西庸古堡位於瑞士的蒙投(Montreux),和歐洲其他富麗堂皇的古堡大不相同,是一個可以讓遊客自由自在穿梭其中的古堡。你也可以租下它,當堡主在此舉辦盛宴、音樂會、雞尾酒會等等。根據其官方網站資料所言,2008年有321,815人造訪此古堡,是歐洲十大古堡之一。 http://www.chillon.ch/en/

西庸古堡首次記載於文字是在西元1150年,歷經3個時期的建設、整修、擴建才有現在的規模:The Savoy period( 12世紀~ 1536);the Bernese period( 1536~1798);the Vaudois period( 1798~至今)。它位於日內瓦湖畔與阿爾卑斯山之間,既有天然屏障,又具重要的戰略位置,控制歐洲南北往來的通道。這座古堡蓋在一大塊巨石上,原先是100座獨立建築物,經過巧妙聯結組合,感覺就是完整的一座中世紀古堡。

古堡入口處- 面向道路,有護城河、塔樓,像是典型的堡壘。


古堡模型


面向日內瓦湖的則是靜謐的王室房間


窗外湖光山色,美不勝收


食物存放處


使用過的炊具


歷史久遠的大廳


房間擺設很簡單、舒適,角落有暖氣爐,自來水,還有私人衛浴設備!就是套房啦。


暖氣設備


廁所的圖解說明板1,一翻開木板就可看到各種圖說,很有趣。彼時識字人口比率應該不高,這種解說方式想必有效。


廁所的圖解說明2


應該是族徽/家徽吧?


同上說明


伯恩人(Bernese)統治時期的紀錄-熊的圖像處處可見

2009年10月6日 星期二

奇美絕色名琴展- 不能錯過的視覺與聽覺饗宴

走出展覽會場,覺得好幸福。

不必出遠門,就能親眼目睹40件極品提琴、古樂器、提琴製作過程、提琴相關畫作與雕塑,還可以聆聽這些提琴所演奏出來的音樂。http://www.mediasphere.com.tw/violin/introduction.htm

相較於之前台北故宮向大英博物館借展時的人山人海,這次與奇美博物館的合作顯然冷清許多。因為提琴是小眾市場嗎?還是覺得自己是音樂門外漢,而怯於前往參觀?如果米勒、梵谷的畫作、龐畢度中心的現代藝術,你都喜歡,那麼,「絕色名琴展」絕對值得細細品味。

只要一張電影票的價錢(包括語音導覽機器一台),就可以在舒適的展覽空間裡,自在的欣賞精緻的畫作,仔細端詳每把提琴,隨著語音導覽的解說以及樂器的演奏,音樂歷史與常識一點也不艱澀。我覺得主辦單位很用心,把古典音樂變通俗了- 其實古典音樂不就是古時候當代的流行音樂嗎?

坐在視聽室裡,聆聽亞太四重奏以全球僅剩一組的「馬吉尼四重奏」琴組(含兩把小提琴、一把中提琴、一把大提琴,是義大利布雷西亞製琴工藝的巔峰之作),演奏莫札特《小夜曲》、《阿里山之歌》和《西北雨直直落》,感受絕世名琴的美妙聲音,太棒了!11分鐘的演奏不斷重播,很方便欣賞,不必等候。

另一個視聽室從阿瑪蒂、瓜奈里、史特拉底瓦里三大家族各挑出一把琴,由國家交響樂團首席小提琴家李宜錦,分別以這幾把琴,演奏西貝流士《小提琴協奏曲》第一樂章小提琴序奏及布洛赫的《巴爾興組曲》,18分鐘的演奏,讓人見識這三把名琴的音色,或甜美,或渾厚,或具爆發力,總而言之,愛過方知情深,醉過方知酒濃,而,聽過方知何謂名琴!

展間內互動的媒體設備及內容豐富的收藏,生動而有內涵,3小時可能也看不完。我今天只待了2小時,因有事先行離開,看不到一半,打算改日再前往參觀。

奇美博物館是許文龍先生的私人館藏。他說:「我買琴,不是想當成財產留給後代,是想分享;擁有琴,不是我的權利,是義務,是幫大家好好保管的義務。」

深為感動。成功的企業家願意與大家分享他的收藏。

絕色名琴-奇美博物館提琴珍藏展
展出地點:國立故宮博物院圖書文獻大樓一樓
展出日期:2009/09/26~ 2010/01/17

2009年10月5日 星期一

Royal Copenhagen 咖啡杯

Tim 到歐洲出差半個月,在哥本哈根為我買了兩個Royal Copenhagen的咖啡杯,簡單而獨特的線條,很耐看。

上班時經常整天忙碌不堪,接踵而來的待辦事項,常令人昏頭轉向。適時的一杯咖啡,總能讓我坐下來,轉換心境,調整情緒再出發。我喝的咖啡是庶民咖啡,即溶、濾泡都可,後來辦公室有10元一杯的現煮咖啡,就更幸福了。退休後,這個習慣依然保持,閱讀書報雜誌時,有咖啡、音樂相伴,雖處陋室,也恍如在天堂。

我試著在客廳的玻璃櫃中找尋空間安置這兩個杯子。這個櫃子裝滿了我們行腳天涯的紀念品,沒什麼值錢的寶貝,只有快樂、難忘的回憶。看我傷透腦筋找不到空位,Tim說:「那是要給你每天喝咖啡用的,不是要放在裡面當擺飾的。」Tim是那種喝了咖啡晚上就睡不著的人。為什麼買兩個?他說:「等孩子們成家立業,自立門戶後,我們就可以相伴用這兩個杯子泡茶、喝咖啡 !」

所以我今天就用這個台幣2000元的咖啡杯喝咖啡啦!雖然覺得有點貴,但是想到Tim千里迢迢,把它放在隨身背包裡,一路背著,深恐摔壞了它,突然發現今天的咖啡特別好喝!


Royal Copenhagen 的商標